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Is valve compression an indicator of valve condition?



 
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improver
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 7:14 am    Post subject: Is valve compression an indicator of valve condition? Reply with quote

Is your valve compression tell you if your valves need replatinng? How do you look and recognize valve wear? How do you know if valves have been replated?
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yourbrass
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One way is to note the response of the horn in the low register. If it's uncentered and "airy" down there, the valves are probably pretty loose.

Valve refitting is not cheap and will take months to get done, so you have to consider whether the horn is worth the money sunk into it and whether you want to be without it for a while.

I tell people it's usually three months' turnaround.
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Manuel de los Campos
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fit of the piston (valve) in the cylinder (valve machine) is exceeding the tolerances air will leak away through the space between the piston and the cylinder.
This results to poor performance; the response of the wind instrument will be frustrated that much (depends on the amount of wear of course) that even a first class pro horn will perform like a poor made Bessons & Co. made somewhere in India. I once posessed a worn out Olds Super that I send it over to Charly Melk. I got it back and the trumpet played like a new one, very very good.
Very good compression though does not nessecary lead to good performing valves: The new boucht Franz Straub trumpet with Bauernfeind valve machine had an excellent compression but the 2nd valve kept on frustrating me. I even send it back to Franz and got the trumpet back with.... a dragging 2nd valve.
The valve machine of trumpet I parked at the house of my parents in law in Swiss never let me down: a low end Chineese clunker named Melody Maker Foreign Make: they never drag, look like **** and have 100% compression after I oiled them with AllSyn syntatic oil...

If your instrument performs well (both play wise as technical) there is no reason to send it to whoever for a valve job. Oil the machine regular, clean the horn in time and enjoy making music
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trompette229
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There isn't a fool proof way to visually look for low compression. Valves that look great may leak and those that look spotty and patchy may be just fine.

Short of taking your horn to a good brass tech who can run a compression test, the old school DIY version is to simply pull out each of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd slides and listen for a pop. If they pull too easily and don't "pop" you MAY have a leaking piston/casing. I say may as the slides themselves could be partially to blame but it is more often the valves. There are those that will tell you that pulling the slides will somehow damage the horn, this simply isn't true.

As far as knowing wether or not a horn has had it's valves done in the past, try finding a pic of the valves of your model horn. Most pro horns (not Getzen) will have silverish pistons (monel) with brass inserts in the ports. If the pistons and ports are all silver/grey, they may have been replated as more often than not the ports aren't plugged when replating (usually with nickel).

Keep in mind at some point you'll have. to take the horn to a good tech at some point in the process so if you suspect your horn is not playing optimally the tech might be the best initial step. Good luck
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JayKosta
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Part of the concern with 'low compression' or 'leaky valves' is that the vibrating column of air can take unwanted paths into and through tubing that should not be in-use with the fingering that is used. This is sometimes called 'jug handle' leaks / leakage. Those leaks alter the tubing length and can result in harmonics being created that do not match those of the chosen fingering - leading to the sound being altered or 'fuzzy', and change how the notes 'slot'.

If trouble is suspected, the first action should be to verify that poor 'valve alignment' is not the cause. If alignment is good and the sound is fuzzy, or 'valve slurs' are 'really smooth', then leakage might be the cause.

Water dripping out the bottom of the valve casing is another clue that there is leakage.

When actually playing, the air pressure inside the instrument is not really an issue - the concern is the path of the vibrating air column.
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Manuel de los Campos
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JayKosta wrote:


Water dripping out the bottom of the valve casing is another clue that there is leakage.


This to me is not the case; the 3th valve of my Getzen Eterna is leaky but the compression is spot on
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Halflip
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trompette229 wrote:
. . . the old school DIY version is to simply pull out each of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd slides and listen for a pop. If they pull too easily and don't "pop" you MAY have a leaking piston/casing.

There is another easy test you can perform at home that may provide slightly more insight into the relative leakiness of your valves -- remove the valve slide of the valve you want to test, cover (with a thumb or finger) the end of the 'outflow' tube connected to the valve block (on a trumpet, that would be the top tube if you are testing the 1st or 3rd valve, and the bottom tube if you are testing the 2nd), press down on the valve button, and blow through the leadpipe with increasing pressure. If it takes a lot of pressure before you hear any (faint) hissing from the valve, it is probably pretty airtight. On the other hand, if you hear hissing right away or after only a slight increase in pressure, you may have a leaky valve.

Nonetheless, the best way to verify the state of your valves is to have a qualified brass tech inspect them and do a pressure test using a Magnehelic tester (or some other calibrated, gauged pressure testing device).
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jeirvine
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trompette229 wrote:
...the old school DIY version is to simply pull out each of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd slides and listen for a pop. If they pull too easily and don't "pop" you MAY have a leaking piston/casing. I say may as the slides themselves could be partially to blame but it is more often the valves. There are those that will tell you that pulling the slides will somehow damage the horn, this simply isn't true.


Even better is to take each slide off one at a time, use your thumb to cover one hole (2nd is usually the bottom, 1st and 3rd top), press down that valve, and blow in the leadpipe. If you hear any air escaping that signifies lower compression. A little leakage can be OK - I have a couple horns that play great with less than perfect compression.
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Last edited by jeirvine on Sun Apr 28, 2024 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Halflip
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Halflip wrote:
There is another easy test you can perform at home that may provide slightly more insight into the relative leakiness of your valves -- remove the valve slide of the valve you want to test, cover (with a thumb or finger) the end of the 'outflow' tube connected to the valve block (on a trumpet, that would be the top tube if you are testing the 1st or 3rd valve, and the bottom tube if you are testing the 2nd), press down on the valve button, and blow through the leadpipe with increasing pressure. If it takes a lot of pressure before you hear any (faint) hissing from the valve, it is probably pretty airtight. On the other hand, if you hear hissing right away or after only a slight increase in pressure, you may have a leaky valve.

jeirvine wrote:
Even better is to take each slide off one at a time, use your thumb to cover one hole (usually the bottom), press down that valve, and blow in the leadpipe. If you hear any air escaping that signifies lower compression. A little leakage can be OK - I have a couple horns that play great with less than perfect compression.

Great minds think alike, I guess. Except --

1) It's not "usually the bottom"; to test the 1st and 3rd valve on a typical trumpet, it's the top hole that you need to block.

2) You will always hear air escaping once you apply enough pressure. You have lower compression only if you hear air escaping right away or with only a slight increase in pressure. As Charlie Melk once told me, a valve that never leaks no matter how high the pressure won't be able to be moved at all.
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adagiotrumpet
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeirvine wrote:
trompette229 wrote:
...the old school DIY version is to simply pull out each of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd slides and listen for a pop. If they pull too easily and don't "pop" you MAY have a leaking piston/casing. I say may as the slides themselves could be partially to blame but it is more often the valves. There are those that will tell you that pulling the slides will somehow damage the horn, this simply isn't true.


Even better is to take each slide off one at a time, use your thumb to cover one hole (usually the bottom), press down that valve, and blow in the leadpipe. If you hear any air escaping that signifies lower compression. A little leakage can be OK - I have a couple horns that play great with less than perfect compression.


First of all, if rapidly pulling out a slide doesn't produce a pop or if you hear air leaking with the one slide out/thumb over the tubing procedure, it could also be a slide that's leaking. And if you horn has a third valve dump slide, make sure it's secure before blowing into the horn. You could launch it across the room. Don't ask me how I know this.
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